The cultivation of Catasetum, Clowesia, Cycnoches, Dressleria, Galeandra, Grobya, Mormodes
The Catasetinae are a subtribe of the orchid family comprising seven genera: Catasetum, Clowesia, Cycnoches (the swan orchid), Dressleria, Grobya, and Mormodes. There are approximately 300 botanical species, and numerous hybrids have been created, such as the highly sought-after Fredclarkeara and Cycnodes.

Their geographical distribution ranges from Mexico to Brazil, in open, sunny areas where dry or wet seasons are strongly marked, and even in near-desert conditions for some species. They tend to grow as epiphytes.
Several characteristics define these orchids:
These orchids are deciduous or semi-deciduous, meaning they can lose their foliage at a time of year (which will be their rest period).
Most of these orchids (except for Clowesia) are not hermaphroditic; the flowers bear either female or male reproductive organs, but not both. Generally, climatic conditions influence the appearance of one type of flower or the other. More rarely, it will produce both types simultaneously.
Catasetum plants are pollinated by Euglossine bees.

The development cycle
To properly cultivate Catasetum and others, it is essential to understand their development cycle which includes a strict rest period.
With the arrival of the dry season, the Catasetum will begin to lose its foliage.
It enters a dormant period. It receives very little humidity. Temperatures can drop to a minimum of 15/18°C at night.
In spring, when the dry season ends, the new pseudobulb will begin to form at the base of the previous pseudobulbs, and the Catasetum will emerge from its dormant period.
The new pseudobulb will grow until it surpasses the size of the previous pseudobulb. The new bulb will sometimes flower when mature, sometimes before maturity.
Therefore, in cultivation, watering should be reduced when the leaves of the Catasetum begin to yellow, for a period that can vary from one plant to another. During this time, occasional misting of the top of the substrate is sufficient.
When the new shoot of the year appears (2-3cm) watering should be resumed gradually up to a rate of one watering per week (or two if it is hot) as soon as the shoot exceeds 5 to 8cm.

Growing temperatures
Most Catasetum orchids need to be grown indoors for much of the year. Temperatures between 18°C and 30°C are ideal. Moving them outdoors during the summer is possible, provided nighttime temperatures are carefully monitored.
Nighttime temperatures can sometimes drop a little lower than 18°C, so it is important to find out about the natural living conditions of the species you wish to cultivate.
Exposure
Excellent light is necessary for the proper development and flowering of Catasetum orchids.
They can be placed less than 50 cm from a window to receive maximum light, especially during winter and when new growth emerges from dormancy. In summer, if the window receives direct sunlight, a light curtain can be used to filter the sun and prevent the foliage from burning.
Some Catasetum grow in full sun exposure; their foliage will then be light green, which is a sign that the plant is happy.

Watering
Reduce watering when the leaves of the Catasetum begin to yellow, for a period that can vary from plant to plant. During this time, you can simply mist the surface of the potting mix occasionally.
When the new shoot of the year appears (2-3cm), gradually resume watering until you reach a rate of once a week (or twice if it's hot) as soon as the shoot exceeds 5 to 8cm.
Fertilizer
Regular fertilization during the growth period of your Catasetum is essential for its healthy development. Apply a balanced fertilizer with each watering once the roots have resumed growth, throughout the entire growth period of the new bulb.

Repotting
Catasetums need a fresh substrate, their roots are susceptible to rot and it is advisable to renew this substrate every year.
For young plants we recommend using Xaxim (crushed tree fern) which gives excellent results on root activity.
For larger plants, a mix with good water retention will provide the necessary moisture. We recommend using a mix similar to that used for Paphiopedilum , but without the lime (coconut peat, bark, Xaxim), or our mix for fine roots , to which you can add extra sphagnum moss .
Repotting is preferably done when the year's growth is a few centimeters long.